In Quarantine & In Health: My Favorite Skin Care tips

I’m a better person when I’m moisturized

Well moisturized, brows, a bit of my concealer and a strong lip are my go-to’s.

For the past year and a half I have consistently hounded women and men alike about proper skin care. For years I was just a person with “good skin”. Minimal maintenance, throw some lotion on and move about my day. Simple. It wasn’t anything that I gave a lot of attention. I rarely had breakouts or anything that caused concerned.

In December of 2016 I developed a small rash on the side of my neck. It spread down my shoulders and to the other side of my body over the course of a week. I was able to get an appointment with a dermatologist who told me I had developed eczema. He prescribed medicine that took the rash down in a few days, but a few things always stuck with me.

Your skin is your largest organ so take care of that
An artist doesn’t buy expensive paint to put on a canvas that they haven’t properly treated.

I started to dib and dab into different skin care but didn’t get super serious about it until about 2018 . I fell into the glory hole of Skin Care Twitter (much better place than LLC and Dinner with Jay Z over 100k Twitter by the way). Like most people who are a novice in this area, I fell face forward into piles of products to try to figure it out. It’s trial and error for most of us. My products started stacking up like the living room of a grandma on your weekly episode of Hoarders. With everything else in life, being intentional matters. I don’t believe there is anything such as good skin vs bad skin. All skin needs taken care of and loved, and for some of us it just needs a little more.

As a note, I am not a doctor or an Esthetician. I am just someone who is deeply in love with skin care and has done a lot of research. I talk about skin care a lot and get questions about it. These are the tips that work for me, but always get professional opinions if you can. Thanks for attending my Black Table Talk.

My biggest lessons over the past year:

Building a skincare routine takes time. You have to be consistent with your products and usage. 30 days to build a new habit; 60 can give you new skin.
Your diet can heavily impact your skin, esp dairy and alcohol.
Skin issues can be genetic.
Skin has texture. Don’t be fooled by pics that have more airbrushing than an RIP Shirt in the hood.
Witch hazel is an astringent, not toner (fight your uncle, not me)
St. Ives and harsh scrubs can cause further damage to your skin. Throw that shit in the trash.
Always put on sunscreen.
Know what acids/chemicals you are mixing (further details below)
Always wear sunscreen.
Pat products into your skin; also pat dry, don’t drag a towel

Wash your face for 60 seconds. (one of my favorite skin care gurus made this popular. )
Have both a dermatologist & an Esthetician if it is in your budget. If you have an HSA, it can cover the costs of a derma.

Just because skin looks healthy, doesn’t mean it is.
What works for YOUR skin is what works for YOUR Skin (except witch hazel and St Ives. throw it out, again)
Do NOT put lemon, baking soda, or such items on your face trying to do “at home” treatments. Those Pinterest tips are not for you beloved.
You don’t need a hundred products. Stick to the ones that have good strength and work for you.
Rinse with cool water, not hot
Give each product time to “settle” into your skin.
You live a better live when well moisturized
Don’t avoid the rest of your body for skin care. Apply your products to your neck and chest. Also use nutrient rich body washes and exfoliators for smooth skin all around.

Understanding Your Skin Care chemistry

Chemistry wasn’t a requirement for my degree however I’ve always had a fascination with how things react and work together hence my slight fascination with skin care. Acids can take your skin care routine from good to great. Understanding what acids you are putting on your skin are instrumental so that you don’t cause any damage by mixing the wrong ingredients or putting too many acidic products on your face. All things aren’t needed in your skin care routine but the proper product combinations can drastically change your skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs): AHAs are known primarily for their exfoliation benefits. The usage of this acid can remove the top layer of skin providing a smoother, more even skin tone, and less wrinkles. AHAs also help to brighten skin, help with discoloration, and treat acne spots. AHAs are good for normal skin as they only work on the surface level and are water soluble. Common AHAs are Glycolic, Lactic, Citric, and Mandelic acids.

Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs): Similar to AHAs, BHAs also help with exfoliation however instead of working at the top level of the skin, work at the pore level and are oil soluble. If you have normal to oily skin, BHAs can help with clogged pores and blemishes. The most common BHA is Salicylic Acid.

Here is a good read on breaking down all the acids and their purposes

I personally don’t mix the use of AHA and BHA at the same time during my skin care routine. Even using a BHA twice a day is too harsh for my skin however I have them in my skin care routine.

Azelaic Acid: Can be mixed with moisturizers or other serums in order to unclog pores and gently exfoliate similar to AHA/BHAs but give you an even tone at the same damn time.

Ceramides: A weakened or damaged skin barrier can prevent your skin from locking in moisture as well as making it more susceptible to bacteria or irritation from products in your skin care routine. Ceramides or lipids help protect your barrier and lock in moisture.

Hyaluronic Acids: HA is a sugar that can be found naturally in our skin. The molecule binds to water and hydrates, plumps, and gives your skin a glow. HA is one acid that can be used day and night and plays well with other skin care serums and acids due to its properties. It is often found in your moisturizers, toners, and more.

Ferulic Acid: An antioxidant that helps with aging/wrinkles.

Niacinamide: Another name for Vitamin B3, Niacinaimide is known for its properties that helps with pores and protecting the skin barrier. If your skin is looking a bit dull, Niacinamide can help bring it back to life.

Peptides: Collagen is a component in your skin that assists with stretch and hydration. The older we get, the less collagen are skin produces which then turns into wrinkles and sags. Peptides encourage the production of collagen in your skin.

Retinol: Retinols contain “Vitamin A” which help with collagen production and can use to treat clog pores and skin appearance. For most people, retinol isn’t a must in your skin care until you hit the age of 30+ however, again, consult your derma/esthi.

Squalane: Like HA, squalene is a natural element found it our body that deals with moisture. Squalane is a derivative of squalene that has gone through hydrogenation (treated with hydrogen). Squalane can assist with sun damage and pigmentation.

Vitamin C: Not to be confused with skin-lightening, Vitamin C is used for skin-brightening that gives skin that glowy dew we all love. It also protects against damage. If you are using Vitamin C, do not use

Mixing Products & Other Tips

Do not mix retinol with AHAs/BHAs. This can cause your skin to be over-exfoliated and damaged. Best case is to use retinol at night
Do not mix ferulic acid with AHAs/BHAs.
You can combine AHA/BHAs however it could cause irritation so be cautious.
If you can, use acids at night when your skin is resting
Vitamin C during the day
Don’t mix vitamin C and retinol.
If you use an AHA/BHA based toner, follow up with a hydrating mist.
Exfoliation happens two ways Manual (with friction) or Chemical (Active Ingredients)

Additional reading on mixing like a pro

The Routine

Even if we are in the house, your skin should still be moisturized and taken care of. Don’t use this time to skip out on doing your routine TWICE per day. I follow an esthi by the name of Nayamka Roberts aka LaBeautyologist on all social medias who gives great skin care recommendations and got my entire routine together. Another person to follow that is a favorite of mine is Sean Garrette (not to be confused with our drunken uncle). He gives very detailed accounts of products, their properties, and uses.

Night Time Routine

Oil Cleanse
Tone
Wash
Exfoliate (2-3 times a week)
Tone
Mask (2-3 times a week)
Tone
Serums/Acids
Tone
Moisturize

Day Time Routine

Wash
Tone
Serums
Tone
Moisturize & Oil
Sunscreen

These are my favorite products that I have used thus far. I have a Mix of high and low products that are both budget friendly but some also on the investment side. You do not need to go out and buy all of these products. I would start with a a face wash and products for hydration then slowly build your way up. You may only need a face wash, hydrating toner, moisturizer and sunscreen. Figure out what is the best for your skin, and your skin only. Why put on $60 foundation on a $10 face?

Oil Cleanse:

Exfoliants (Manual)